In town on other business today, I spent an hour in the Williams College Museum of Art, and it alone was worth the trip. MassMoCA and the Clark Art Institute get all the attention, but my stroll around the smaller WCMA ran the gamut of glories, from 19th- and 20th-century favorites to the discovery of an artist entirely new to me and a hypermodern installation from China.
Start with the last one. I made the stop because of Cate McQuaid's Globe article about Zhan Wang's "Urban Landscape Beijing," a vast model of the great city compiled in stainless steel cooking implements - steamer trays and tea urns, cookpots and silverware. Big and conceptual and its own punchline, it's the sort of piece that usually finds a home at MassMoCA. But I'm not sure it really makes the artist's point about overwhelming modernization and "westernization"; Americans, anyway, like shiny and sleek, and it has a kind of retro sci fi cool under the spotlights. It's hard to feel outrage about something that looks like a family reunion for the robot from "The Day the Earth Stood Still." It might also fit better, literally, in the vastness of MassMoCA - it's a little scrunched inside its gallery in WCMA's historic building.
From there I wandered into the museum's more or less permanent "American Dreams" exhibit, featuring a rotating selection from the permanent collection. There aren't many rooms this small where you'll find an Eakins and a Copley and an especially nice Cassatt together; I was drawn by Ben Shahn's "Portrait of Walker Evans" and the impressionist beauty of Robert Lee McCameron's "Group at the Theater." I was disappointed to find that Hopper's great "Morning in a City" had been rotated out. But one of my all-time favorites, Grant Wood's "Death on the Ridge Road," was in the house, with its looming car crash horror, Steinbeckian midwest landscape and Thomas the Tank Engine vehicles. (Memo to museum staff - can't you find a slightly less reflective piece of glass for the frame??)
I spent a little time with an exhibit of three Jackson Pollocks, one just restored by WCMA staff.
Then, in another small room, I was introduced to the works of Rhoda Holmes Nicholls, who for some reason has never been seriously studied until now, and hasn't even been exhibited since 1924. This self-portrait is only a taste of what she has to offer, most of it running to landscapes from around the world - and the North Shore of Massachusetts. How it is that none of her sand dunes and rocky shores found their way into the Peabody Essex Museum's "Painting Summer in New England" I'll never understand. The 1881 watercolor "Moonlight on African Farm" is a spooky stunner. And a small, seemingly Japanese-inspired oil from the same year called "Apple Blossoms" makes you thankful for the richness of its blue and gold background and the bright purity of its white flowers.
It was a hell of an hour. And admission is free. I actually stuffed a fiver in the jar by the door on my way out. Get thee to the Berkshires before the summer is out.